Blue Cliffs

Blue Cliffs is a relatively sheltered beach break and river mouth near the mouth of the Waiau River, at the western end of the huge Te Waewae Bay. The standout is the right-hander that peels into the river mouth, but peaks scatter all along the beach with both lefts and rights on offer, and the very western end tucks into a touch more shelter when the swell is up. The bottom is mostly sand with some stones, so the waves run soft and fat one moment and surprisingly punchy the next. It wants a S or SW swell with a N or NE offshore and a mid to high incoming tide, and on its day serves up fun, rippable peaks that suit most levels. It can be inconsistent, so timing the swell matters more than at the region's reliable points.

This is a genuinely remote stretch of coast where Southland farmland gives way to the wild approach to Fiordland. The Waiau mouth is restless and shifts position from year to year, sometimes sealing off a long lagoon, and the cliffs that name the beach are eroding steadily into the sea. The whole bay is a marine mammal sanctuary: Hector's dolphins (pokohue) work the inshore water, especially in summer, and Te Waewae is one of the mainland's main winter breeding grounds for southern right whales (tohorā), with fur seals along the rocks. The beach is also the trailhead for the Hump Ridge Track and the South Coast Track, so most of the few people you see here are trampers, not surfers.

• Bring a step-up and a thicker suit than you think you need. The swell can jump on a southerly and the water is colder here than almost anywhere else you will surf in the country.
• Stay loose on spot choice. With peaks all along the beach and a fickle setup that shifts with the sand, walk the beach and let the cleanest corner decide where you paddle out rather than fixing on one peak.
• Give the wildlife plenty of room and let them come to you. Paddling toward the dolphins or seals is unsafe and not on, so hold your line and enjoy having them around.
• Make Tuatapere your base, about 28 km and 30 minutes back up the road. It is the self-styled sausage capital and gateway to the Hump Ridge Track, so fuel up, restock and consider tacking the walk onto a surf trip.

• The Waiau river mouth throws strong currents and rips, which is exactly why the right-hander works there. Read the channel before you paddle out and use any rip to get out rather than fighting it back in.
• The peaks shift constantly with the sand and the moving river mouth, so a bank that fired last season may be gone. Watch the lineup a while before committing and pick the corner that is actually breaking cleanly.
• It is cold, subantarctic water year-round, among the coldest surf in NZ. Underdress and you will be useless within the hour, so wear the full hood, boots and gloves setup in winter.
• This is remote and isolated with no patrol and no quick help, and cell coverage is unreliable. Surf with a mate, tell someone your plan and carry everything you need.
• Tides run right up to the eroding cliff faces in places, so know your exit and do not get cut off below the cliffs on a rising tide.
• Bigger S and SW swells push real size and power onto an exposed, sparsely surfed coast. Pick your day honestly and treat the heavier peaks with respect.

Getting there

From Tuatapere, cross the Waiau River and follow Papatotara Road onto Papatotara Coast Road, roughly 28 km in total to Bluecliffs Beach and the Rarakau car park. The last 7 km or so is unsealed gravel, fine for a 2WD in the dry but slow and isolated. Coming from Invercargill it is around 90 minutes via SH99 through Riverton and Tuatapere.

Parking

There is a car park at Rarakau at the western end, which doubles as the trailhead parking for the Hump Ridge Track and South Coast Track, and you can pull off along the coast road to surf the peaks further along the beach. Rarakau Lodge also offers secure parking for trekkers.

Toilets & showers

Assume none at the beach itself; this is undeveloped coast with no confirmed public toilets or showers. Use the facilities in Tuatapere before you drive out, or ask at Rarakau Lodge if you are staying.

Shops, cafes & fuel

Nearest of everything is Tuatapere, about 28 km away. The Four Square on Main Street is open seven days (7:30am to 9pm) for groceries and takeaways, with cafes including Tui Base Camp and The Hungry Hippo, and a 24/7 Allied fuel stop (91 and diesel) at 20 Orawia Road. Nothing is available at the beach, so arrive self-contained.

Accommodation

Rarakau Lodge sits right at the start of the Hump Ridge Track by Bluecliffs Beach, offering rooms from bunk shares to a deluxe suite. Otherwise base yourself in Tuatapere, which has the Last Light Lodge, Waiau Town & Country Club, a holiday park and a handful of B&Bs and baches.

Camping

There is a small bach settlement along the coast but no established public campground at the beach. Southland District Council does run a freedom camping bylaw, with rules that vary by site, so check the council's freedom camping pages and any local signage before staying overnight rather than assuming it is allowed. The reliable option is a campervan or tent site at the holiday park or motor camps in Tuatapere.