Hot Water Beach

Hot Water Beach has two distinct surf setups split by the offshore rocks at the centre of the beach. The north end produces a left, a point-style wave when the bank lines up against the rocks, while the south end has a right-hander that breaks over a shallow outer reef when the swell is in the right window. It works on a clean E or NE groundswell with W or SW winds, and when those line up both ends can fire at the same time. Keep an eye on the size, because above 1.5m the wave turns hollow and heavy with shallow takeoffs at both ends, intermediate-plus only. The beach runs around 1.5km on the rohe of Ngāti Hei, in the quieter southern stretch of Mercury Bay.

The same beach is home to the geothermal springs at its centre, accessible for about two hours either side of low tide. The surf and the springs share the sand but occupy different zones, so you surf the ends and soak the middle. Time them right and a session plus a soak make one of the more memorable mornings on the Coromandel, particularly for surfers travelling with non-surfing partners or kids. It is one of the most visited tourist beaches in New Zealand, so the central spring zone draws crowds while the surf at the ends stays its own world.

• Let the wind pick your end: a light W or SW grooms the north bank, while a swing onshore there usually means the south reef is the better bet, so watch both before you commit.
• If you are still developing, save Hot Water Beach for a smaller, cleaner day. Pauanui or Onemana down the coast hold gentler banks at the same size when this one is overhead.
• Line up a session and a soak together by surfing the mid-to-high push and getting out as the tide drops, then dig a pool in the spring zone (spades rent from the surf club or cafe for a few dollars) while you dry off.
• Go mid-week or in the shoulder season for the spring zone at its best, because on summer Saturdays you are sharing that stretch of sand with a few hundred others.
• The drive in from SH25 winds through farmland and bush, so allow 20 minutes longer than Google suggests on summer Saturdays when the road bottlenecks at the beach junction. Mercury Bay Adventures and a few local operators also run combo trips pairing the soak with a paddle out to the Cathedral Cove area, worth a half-day if you have a non-surfer along.

• Stay 50 metres clear of the offshore rocks at the centre of the beach where the springs emerge. The rips there have killed several visitors over the years, and the rule holds whether you are swimming, surfing or soaking.
• The hot springs run around 64°C, hot enough to scald bare skin, so always mix spring water with incoming ocean water in your pool before getting in and watch where kids put their feet in the spring zone.
• Strong rips run on bigger swells, especially near the central rocks, so read the lineup from the beach for a few minutes and pick your channel before paddling out.
• The water shallows up fast over the outer reef at the south end and against the central rocks, so know the bottom under each takeoff before you commit to a wave.

Getting there

On Hot Water Beach Road off SH25, about 12km southeast of Whitianga and 10 minutes south of Hahei. 2.5 hrs from Auckland via Kopu-Hikuai (SH25A). The drive in from SH25 winds through farmland and bush, allow 20 minutes longer than Google suggests on summer Saturdays.

Parking

Main car park at the end of Pye Place near the surf club access. TCDC operates paid parking in peak season. Fills by mid-morning on summer days and through school holidays.

Toilets & showers

Public toilets at the main beach access. Hot Water Beach Lifeguard Service patrols the flagged section in summer (weekend volunteer patrols Labour Weekend to Easter, daily cover mid-December to early February).

Shops, cafes & fuel

Hot Waves Cafe and the Hot Water Beach Store sit next to the carpark, the store rents spades for the spring zone. Hahei village 10 minutes north has cafes (Hahei Beach Cafe, The Pour House), a small convenience store and a fish-and-chip shop. Whitianga 30 minutes north for supermarkets and fuel.

Accommodation

Hot Water Beach Top 10 Holiday Park sits 5 minutes back from the spring zone for cabins and sites, with cafes nearby. Hahei Beach Resort and motels at Hahei 10 minutes north for the next ring of options, Whitianga for the full range.

Camping

TCDC freedom-camping bylaw prohibits overnight stays at the Hot Water Beach reserve. The holiday park or Hahei 10 minutes north are the legal options.