Te Araroa

Te Araroa sits near the top of the East Cape, where the coast faces broadly northeast with nothing between it and South America. The surf breaks at the mouth of the Te Araroa River on a beach of sand and shingle: several peaks with both rights and lefts, wally and hollow, shifting constantly with the gravel banks. The standout is the right-hand point on the east side of the river mouth, a primo right that barrels hard over shallow gravel when a big NE swell meets a SW offshore. It is a wave for confident surfers, and one of the least-surfed quality setups in the country.

This is not a place you visit casually. The drive from Gisborne or Ōpōtiki is over three hours of winding coast road, there is no patrol and no rescue, and the river mouth runs strong currents on the bigger days. But for surfers willing to make the trip and camp a few nights, the reward is clear water, empty lineups, and a landscape backed by the Raukumara ranges. Te Araroa is also the first coast in New Zealand to greet the sunrise, home to Te Waha o Rerekohu, the largest pōhutukawa in the country, and the gateway to the East Cape Lighthouse at the easternmost point of the mainland.

• The wave is at the Te Araroa River mouth, with several peaks running rights and lefts, wally and hollow, shifting with the shingle banks. The standout is the right-hand point on the east side of the river mouth, a primo right that barrels hard over shallow gravel on a big NE swell with a SW or SSW offshore, and it is a confident surfer's wave.
• It needs a NE swell, since the coast faces broadly northeast and lights up on a clean NE groundswell with a SW offshore. Check the banks before you commit, because the river mouth changes constantly and can be flat one week and firing the next.
• Make it a circuit rather than a single destination, pairing Te Araroa with Waihau Bay and Hicks Bay (30 minutes west, faces more north, fast and hollow on its day) for a multi-day East Cape surf trip. There is no quick way in or out, so plan to stay.
• The landmarks are worth the stops, with Te Waha o Rerekohu, the largest pōhutukawa in New Zealand at over 600 years old, standing by the school in town. The East Cape Lighthouse sits 21 km east on East Cape Road (partly gravel) then 700 steps up, though note Maritime NZ has closed lighthouse access after storm damage, so check before you go. And the sunrise here is the first in the country.

• The river-mouth currents and rips run strong here, especially on a bigger swell, so respect how much water is moving before you paddle out.
• The gravel under the right-hand point is shallow and the barrel breaks hard over it, so know what you are dropping into.
• Watch for the rocks scattered around the river mouth and the points, because they sit where you least want them.
• This coast is remote with no patrol and no rescue, and the nearest help is a long way off, so surf well within yourself.

Getting there

Te Araroa, at the top of the East Cape on SH35. About 3.5 hours (175 km) from Gisborne or 2.5 hours from Ōpōtiki, sealed but winding the whole way. The surf is at the river mouth off Moana Parade in the township.

Parking

Parking at the township beach off Moana Parade by the river mouth. Park and walk to whichever bank or the east-side point looks best, the setup shifts with the shingle.

Toilets & showers

Public toilets in the township and hot showers for guests at Te Araroa Holiday Park. Toilets (when unlocked) at the East Cape Road end, 21 km east toward the lighthouse.

Shops, cafes & fuel

Te Araroa Holiday Park has a well-stocked store open 7am to 7pm with a liquor licence, plus the 35 Eat Street burger joint a few days a week. Basic supplies and fuel in the township, but stock up properly here or back at Hicks Bay, as this is a long way from a supermarket. Nearest large town is Gisborne, 3.5 hours south.

Accommodation

Te Araroa Holiday Park, five minutes north of town and a two-minute walk to the ocean, has powered and tent sites, cabins, units, hot showers and a camp store. A handful of motels and baches around the township; Hicks Bay, 30 minutes west, has more.

Camping

Te Araroa Holiday Park is the camp for vans and tents, with 80 tent sites (38 powered). The East Cape is remote, so a powered park with a store is the sensible base. Freedom camping is restricted under the GDC bylaw, so use the holiday park.