Hickory Bay

Hickory Bay is the wave magnet of the Christchurch area, a genuinely good exposed beach break off the eastern tip of Banks Peninsula and facing due east, which is exactly why it works when everywhere else has gone flat. Out on the end of the peninsula it captures swell from the south right around to the north-east, so a S or SE groundswell wrapping up the coast lights it up while a NW offshore grooms it clean. The bottom is sand, the banks are usually excellent, and on its day it throws fast, punchy, hollow peaks down the beach with a quality left running off the far cliff at the western end. It breaks across all tides and handles size, surfing best for confident intermediates and up when it is solid while staying manageable for all levels on the small days. Locals rate it one of the best waves in the region, hence the name, from the Māori Waikerikikari, the Bay of Angry Waters.

The catch is getting there, and it is a real one. The bay is a long haul over the hills from Akaroa on a winding, partly unsealed road, and from the carpark at the bottom you finish on foot, a 10 to 15 minute walk down a farm track through private grazing land to the sand. There is nothing at the bay at all, no toilet, no shop, no water and no reliable phone signal, and New Zealand fur seals haul out along this coast. It is a committing trip for a wild, empty bay, and on the right swell it is unforgettable.

• Time your run for a S or SE swell with a NW wind and you have the ingredients for Hickory at its best. Because it sits out on the end of the peninsula and faces east, it picks up swell that the more sheltered Christchurch beaches miss entirely, so it is the one to check when the city looks flat.
• Treat the access as part of the day. Allow roughly 30 to 40 minutes from Akaroa over the Summit Road, drive the shingle Hickory Bay Road slowly in a vehicle you trust, then factor the 10 to 15 minute walk in each way carrying your board, so it is a half day commitment rather than a quick check.
• Pack completely self sufficient. Bring water, food, a full wetsuit for the conditions, a spare leash and a first aid kit, because once you are on the sand there is nothing for an hour in any direction.
• Make a peninsula day of it. Le Bons Bay, Magnet Bay and Taylors Mistake are all other options depending on swell and wind, so if Hickory is not quite working you can chase the conditions around the bays, and Akaroa, a historic French settlement on a stunning volcanic harbour, is the spot for lunch and fuel on the way home.

• This is a powerful, punchy beach break that can throw fast and hollow when the swell is up, so it surfs best for confident intermediates and above. On the bigger days the close-outs and the volume of water make it no place to be out of your depth.
• Rip currents run on any decent sized beach break, and Hickory works on solid south swells with nobody around to help. Watch the banks, use the rips to get out rather than fight them, and never surf this remote bay alone.
• The left peels off the rocky cliff at the western end, so it is fun but unforgiving. Keep clear of the rock face on the inside, especially at lower tide and on a bigger set.
• New Zealand fur seals haul out along this coast and you may share the lineup with them. Give them a wide berth, never get between a seal and the water, and remember they can move fast.
• Cold water is a year round factor this far south. Winter sits around 9 to 11 degrees, so a 5/4mm with boots, gloves and a hood is essential, and even summer wants a 3/2mm or 4/3mm.
• There is no toilet, no water and no reliable phone coverage at the bay, and the nearest help is back over the hill in Akaroa. Carry everything you need, take all your rubbish out, and tell someone your plan before you go.

Getting there

Hickory Bay sits off the far eastern end of Banks Peninsula, around 30 to 40 minutes from Akaroa and about 90 minutes from Christchurch. From State Highway 75 toward Akaroa, turn up the Takamatua valley onto Long Bay Road and climb to the Summit Road, then take the signed turn onto Hickory Bay Road and follow it down to the coast. The lower section is narrow, winding and unsealed shingle, slow and bumpy, so allow plenty of time and drive to the conditions. From the carpark at the bottom it is a marked 10 to 15 minute walk down a farm track to the beach.

Parking

There is a small informal carpark at the bottom of Hickory Bay Road where the public road ends. From there you walk in on the farm track, so you cannot drive onto the sand. Stay on the signed route through the private farmland and do not block the farmer's driveway or gates.

Toilets & showers

There are no toilets, showers or any facilities at Hickory Bay. The nearest public toilets are back in Akaroa, around 30 to 40 minutes away, so come prepared and use them before you leave town.

Shops, cafes & fuel

Nothing is available at the bay. Akaroa is the nearest town for everything, with the NPD Akaroa Motor Garage on Rue Lavaud for fuel and a shop, a Four Square supermarket, and a good run of cafes and takeaways along the waterfront. Stock up there before the drive over.

Accommodation

There is no accommodation at the bay itself. Akaroa is the closest base with motels, hotels, holiday homes and baches, and there are scattered baches and farm stays around the eastern bays such as Le Bons Bay. Plan to stay in or near Akaroa and drive over for a surf.

Camping

Camping, fires and overnight stays are not permitted at Hickory Bay, which is private farmland with no facilities. For camping, head back toward Akaroa and the eastern bays, where holiday parks and campgrounds such as those at Le Bons Bay and Okains Bay cater for overnight stays, and check the Christchurch City Council bylaw before freedom camping anywhere on the peninsula.