Whangapoua / New Chums

Whangapoua is a sheltered north-facing bay on the upper Coromandel, one of the more user-friendly surf options on the east coast when a real N or NE groundswell is running. The headland on the south protects the beach from southerly weather, it wants 1m or more with an offshore S or SW to fire, and mid to high tide tends to work best across the banks. Peaks work at either end and the banks shift between seasons, with the rocks around Pungapunga Island at the southern end sometimes producing a longer wave on the right day. The spot sits on the rohe of Ngāti Hei, about 70 minutes northeast of Thames.

The famous neighbour is over the headland to the north. Wainuiototo Bay (New Chums) is a one-kilometre arc of white sand with no road, no buildings and almost no people, reached by a 30 to 40 minute coastal walk from the north end of Whangapoua. The bay sits more sheltered than Whangapoua, the bank is rolling and forgiving rather than punchy, and on most swells the wave is small and friendly rather than memorable, more for the experience than the wave quality. What it offers, when conditions line up, is a surf on a beach with nobody else on it, surrounded by undeveloped native bush. It is one of the more atmospheric paddles you can do in New Zealand.

• Take a minute to look before you paddle out: check both ends of the beach and pick the bank with the cleanest channel beside it, rather than paddling out at the first access and finding the peak is not working.
• Aim for mid-week any time of year, because summer weekends and school holidays bring walkers to the New Chums track, though the Whangapoua surf scene stays quiet year-round.
• If you walk in to New Chums for a surf, go for the experience as much as the wave: it is usually small and forgiving, so take an easy-paddling board, time the tide for the crossing, and you will likely have a pristine beach to yourself.
• New Chums has been a preservation cause since 2010, when a plan for houses and a boat ramp met strong local resistance, and it remains one of the last sizable undeveloped beaches on the Coromandel, named among the world's best deserted beaches by the likes of the Observer, Lonely Planet and National Geographic.
• Tread lightly and take your rubbish home. Dogs are not allowed on New Chums to protect nesting shorebirds, though they are allowed on Whangapoua under TCDC rules. The place stays the way it is because locals work to keep it that way.

• Rips run hard at the headland between the two beaches, and on a bigger day the channel pulls out fast, so resist the temptation to swim or paddle around the rocks at low tide and walk over the saddle instead.
• Getting to New Chums means crossing the tidal stream and stony edge at the north end of Whangapoua, which is deep and awkward within about two hours either side of high tide, so time your walk for the lower half of the tide rather than turning up at high water.
• Both beaches are unpatrolled year-round, so surf within your ability, especially at New Chums where you are a 30 to 40 minute walk from help and mobile coverage is unreliable.
• Kauri dieback is present in the Coromandel bush, so use the boot-cleaning station at the start of the walk, stay on the marked path and avoid touching tree roots.

Getting there

On the northeast Coromandel, 70 minutes northeast of Thames or about 3 hours from Auckland via SH25. Park at the William Mangakahia Lagoon Reserve at the north end of Whangapoua Beach, which serves both the surf there and the start of the New Chums walk.

Parking

Sealed car park at the William Mangakahia Lagoon Reserve at the north end of Whangapoua, with roadside parking along Mangakahia Drive when it is busy. The New Chums walk starts from the north end of the beach.

Toilets & showers

Public toilet at the William Mangakahia Lagoon Reserve at the north end of Whangapoua. There is nothing at New Chums itself, so carry water, snacks and sun protection, and there are no surf showers at either beach.

Shops, cafes & fuel

No shop, cafe or fuel at Whangapoua village. Matarangi, 10 minutes back, has a small cafe and grocery, and Coromandel town, about 25 minutes west, has full supplies and fuel.

Accommodation

Mostly holiday baches at both Whangapoua and Matarangi, with Hot Water Beach 30 minutes south for a long-weekend combo. The closest holiday park is Whangapoua Holiday Park, a short drive back toward the main road and the nearest park to New Chums; Matarangi village itself has none.

Camping

TCDC's bylaw does not permit camping at either Whangapoua or New Chums. The closest legal option is Whangapoua Holiday Park (cabins and campsites), with the holiday parks at Whitianga the next nearest.